July 2003 Mission Trip to Ghana

On July 16, 2003, twelve members and friends of Fourth Church left for a twelve-day trip to Ghana. Here they share their daily experiences in pictures and words and invite us to join them in their journey.

The mission group worked and toured in and around the village of Hohoe, the area where Fourth Church member Josh Heikkila has been serving as a missionary. In addition to working on a construction project, the group paired with local residents of like professions and engaged in cross-cultural dialogue to share ideas and life experiences.

Mission Trip Participants Lola Coke Tom Coke Neda Dollah Kerry Grady Elizabeth Lupfer Ann Mellott Susan Michaelsen Kari Sanderson Ashley Wright Maureen Zaeske Leaders: Calum MacLeod Mark Nelson

 

Ghana Diary
| July 17–18 | July 19 | July 20 | July 21 | July 22 | July 23 | July 24 | July 25| July 26–27|July 28–29: Final Reflections

July 17-18

We have begun our mission trip to Ghana.  There will be 13 of us in our group, including mission trip veterans, first-timers, a doctor, a nurse, a teacher and two lawyers.  Ten of us are traveling from Chicago, including Lola, Tom, Neda, Kerry, Ann, Calum, Mark, Susan, Maureen and Elizabeth.  Ashley Wright, a Fourth Church member who lives in London, will be joining us there, and Kari Sanderson arrives on Tuesday.  In addition, we are fortunate to have Josh Heikkila as part of our hearty band of travelers.  Josh is a Fourth Church member who has been serving as a Young Adult Mission Volunteer with the Presbyterian Church (USA) in Ghana.  For the past year, he has been living in the small village of Alavanyo at a trade school and working with the Evangelical Presbyterian Church, Ghana (EPC).  He has been our "man in Ghana" doing much of the ground work to get ready for our trip.  We also owe a big thank you to Vicki Reynolds, Director of Mission at Fourth Church, who handled many of the arrangements "stateside."
 
During our 12 days in Ghana, we will visit Accra (the capital) and Ho (the home of the EPC) before heading to Hohoe (pronouced Ho-way), which will be our home away from home.  We will be constructing a church "from the ground up" in the small village of Akpafu Odomi, visiting a hospital, spending a day in Alavanyo, and doing some other touring in the Volta Region of Ghana.  Mostly, we will be making connections with local Ghanaians and the EPC.
 
If the above sounds like a laundry list of places and activities, know that it does to us as well.  While we have had three orientation sessions, we know little more than what Josh has told us in emails and phone calls and we have read in guide books or seen on maps.  For most of the group, this is their first trip to Africa.  As such, there is a large sense of curiousity and not knowing what to expect.  For some, this has created some anxiety.  For others, a sense of excitement.  It's par for the course for mission trippers.  It's part of what you sign on for.  It's part of the adventure.
 
I was in Cameroon last year with the church, so I think I have an idea of what this will be like.  Still, I have questions.  How will Ghana compare?  Will it be more or less developed?  What will the people be like?  As one of the leaders, I'm also concerned that we all stay safe and healthy.  (Fortunately, our group includes a doctor, a nurse, and a well-stocked first aid kit.)
 
Mission trips have a way of just happening.  You plan and make arrangements, but you never really know what will happen until you are there "in the moment."  I'm reminded of what Fourth Church member Hugh Halverstadt told us at our last orientation session.  Hugh grew up in the Congo as the son of two missionaries and has led several trips to Africa.  He said that as Americans, our tendency is to "do something" -- build a building or fix a problem.  Hugh said the most important thing we can do is to "just be."  That's an incredibly appropriate way to describe what I hope our experience will be like.  Yes, we will be building a church and "doing" other acts, but I'm most excited about meeting new people and experiencing life in another country in a way that a typical tourist trip doesn't allow.
 
It is now Thursday and we are on the last leg of our trip.  We have caught our first glimpse of Africa from the plane -- the vast Sahara Desert.  We just took off from a short refueling stop in Lagos, Nigeria for Accra.  Our trip has started our smoothly.  We were a bleary eyed group of zombies this morning when we arrived in Frankfurt, but we have caught up on sleep on this flight.  We are excited to begin to see these places on the map and experience the answers to our questions.  Mostly, we are anxious to see what God has in store for us during the next 12 days.  Stay tuned. The adventure has just begun!

— Mark Nelson

July 19

We arrived in Accra on Wednesday night. As we departed the plane, everyone was excited to finally be in Africa. Tom Coke and Elizabeth Lupfer share their early impressions in this first journal entry for our trip.

It was amazing to see the Sahara Desert as we crossed Africa enroute for Ghana. What a sight to behold. We were met in Accra on Thursday night by Josh, Ashley and our new friends Frank, Emmanuel and Jonas, all who were connected with the EPC. As I talked with Jonas at dinner that first night, I was struck by the interaction with him and the reality of the opportunity that Ghanaians have. Jonas was very intelligent. He was very young, in his early 20s, and a student who had the opportunity for an education. What he lacked was capital resources. He had a job, which he was very proud of, but he earned far less than any American in a similar job. As someone who is about his age, I was struck by how different our economic opportunities were.

Accra was an interesting, hustling city. Parts were nicer than some American cities. We spend the night in an expatriot neighborhood that seemed quite nice. On Friday, we toured the city in our tro-tro -- the van the EPC has provided for our transportation. The coast was beautiful, full of crashing waves, broad beaches, fishermen and nets. We visited the National Museum, where we saw a moving exhibit on the early slave traders. The shackles they had on display were difficult for many of us to see. I thought of my African-American friend and the tragedy of what we had done to his ancestors.

Upon leaving Accra, we drove through the Ghanaian countryside. It’s very much of a jungle. Very different from what we see in Chicago! We spent Friday afternoon at the EPC headquarters in Ho. After meeting with the Moderator, several of us chanced upon a group of youth practicing for Sunday service. The combined sound of their voices, the drums and other instruments was amazing, and we sat mesmerized listing to them practice for several minutes.

Afterward, we saw a group of confirmation students. As we introduced ourselves, Calum asked what their favorite and least favorite parts of confirmation class were. Singing was definitely a favorite.

— Tom Coke

I am really glad that I came to Ghana to see more of Africa. I noticed a different spirit once we got into the plane from Germany to Nigeria and Ghana. The children were so well behaved, and the parents were very gentle and patient. It was wonderful seeing the Sahara Desert as we flew over it.

We stayed our first night in Accra, the capital. It was crowded and the car exhaust hung in the air. We went out to dinner at an outdoor restaurant for our first taste of Ghanaian food. Josh had to help us with the menu, but soon, we were dining and enjoying a taste of the local cuisine. The dinner was very relaxing, and I quickly began to get into the spirit of Ghana. People seem more relaxed here -- a good lesson for me to learn. I slept well until the roosters started crowing. For breakfast we had coffee and rolls and then drove around touring the city. My most memorable image of the day was a young child bathing on a busy sidewalk. He was covered head to toe with white soap that stood in stark contrast to his deep brown skin. He waved joyfully and freely with a huge smile.

On Saturday, we visited a farm training center run by the EPC and visited a town founded by German missionaries. We took a short climb to the top of a small mountain there. From the cross above the city, we had an amazing view of the Ghanaian countryside and Lake Volta. After piling in the van and starting on our journey for Hohoe, our van got stuck on a very rough, back road.

On Wednesday night, Josh had joked about the need to go with the flow, even if we were stuck on the roadside in the middle of a rainstorm. Of course, it was raining. Fortunately, we managed to push it out and we were on our way to Hohoe. Despite that mishap, the past two days have been a wonderful entry in to Ghanaian life.

— Elizabeth Lupfer

July 20

With anticipation of our first church service in Ghana, Mark Nelson, Neda Dollah and I set off for the village of Ayona. After a fast and bumpy ride over a single-lane dirt road, we arrived to an overwhelming welcome. In fact, overwhelming sums up my experience.

The new Ayona EP Church is a large building with concrete floors, benches and lots of fresh air. Several times during the three hour service the rain poured making a joyful noise. But that is only the physical structure. This building was filled with the beautiful people of Ghana.
We were seated in places of honor along with the local village chiefs and church elders. The music, dancing, scripture, preaching and prayer filled God's church with the Holy Spirit. When the choir began to sing one of my favorite hymns, "It Is Well with My Soul," in their native tongue, I could hardly contain my soul.

Mark, Neda, and I brought greetings to the congregation from Fourth Church in Chicago along with gifts for the Sunday school children: a Good News Bible and supplies for the Sunday school. We were presented with solidarity beads to remind us of our Ghanaian brothers and sisters and to bring us strength in times of trouble. Mark was deeply moved by the pastor's gifts. He was honored with the pastor's personal embroidered "smock."

We enjoyed fellowship and broke bread with the pastor of the congregation and our host from Hohoe. I was able to share with Pastor Sami the story of the Presbyterian businessman of Chicago who lost his family in an ocean disaster and was inspired to write, "It Is Well with My Soul." The children of the church performed for us with such joy! The smiling faces, the loving spirits, the presence of God - all this I will treasure forever.

— Maureen Zaeske

This morning Calum, Ann, and I attended church in Odomi, the small rural village in Ghana's Volta Region, not far from the border with Togo and the same town we will begin working in tomorrow.

We've come to Ghana to help construct a chapel to replace the one that was destroyed by a storm in 1992. As I walked behind the choir and reverends of the congregation as part of the processional, I couldn't help but think of the processional back home at Fourth. There was no stained glass here, to say the least. No organ. No brass. No suits. No ties. The service was held in a makeshift shed that had a cement floor, a tin roof, and bamboo walls with the shoots spaced widely enough apart to let in a much-needed breeze. And it was bursting at the seams with worshipers! The three of us walked into a welcoming sea of Ghanaian faces with strikingly bright white smiles. Everyone was singing and dancing and somewhere a drum or two was beating.

Calum, Ann, and I could follow the service, which was conducted in Ewe, the local dialect, and translated for our benefit at times. We sang songs from a hymnal also written in Ewe and watched unembarrassed as members stared and laughed at our fumbling pronunciations. When we were introduced, Calum spoke about Pentecost; even though the disciples were speaking in different tongues there was still understanding. The congregation laughed and shook their heads in warm agreement.

We were honored to be joined in worship by the chiefs of the four local clans who were dressed in their traditional regalia: brightly colored fabric draped toga-like over one shoulder. The head chief of all the clans, a position that rotates, also wore a crown and was followed into the chapel by a young man carrying a staff topped with a tortoise figurine. Calum later said, "You could have knocked me over when the chiefs walked in!" The three of us glanced at each other in amazement on a regular basis.
After the lengthy offering, which was a joyous event full of dancing and praise, an auction took place. Members who couldn't afford monetary gifts brought in baskets of local harvest. The grand finale came when two men walked in carrying a sheep above their heads. The bidding became intense as the sheep bleeted away on its own behalf!

When the two and a half hour service was over, we were taken outside and seated while group after group (choirs, Reverends, elders, children, etc.) posed for photos with us. Not a typical Sunday in the lives of three Windy City Presbyterians! It was a day we will remember for the rest of our lives. Despite the drastically different surroundings, walking into that makeshift chapel in Odomi felt like coming home. God was there.

— Susan Michaelsen

Ashley, Josh and I headed off in the van to Alavanyo, the town where Josh has been working. Josh had a big day ahead. He would see his confirmation class get confirmed.

The service began with a procession through town. As we passed through the streets of this small village, the youth sang songs in Ewe. Even though I could not understand the words, the spirit and the message were strong and filled with an undying love and faith in Jesus Christ. It was somewhat overwhelming to be one of three white people in the procession. The children were fascinated by us, and Ashley and I held their hands as we walked. The smiles and giggles were contagious as we laughed and danced.

The open-air chapel at the EP Technical Training Center was full of people when we arrived, and there were many tents outside also filled with people. This was a big day for the village! We processed into the chapel and were seated with the elders of the church as honored guests.

The music for the worship was so uplifting. There were African drums,an electric keyboard, three saxophones, a trumpet, a drummer, and many Alleluias. As we sang the hymns it was overwhelming to hear the songs in Ewe. I could recognize the music and tried to sing along as Josh shares his hymnal with me.

The sermon by Pastor Videbah was about shepherding and the need for people to shepherd the confirmands. He also challenged the confirmands to shepherd each other and those in the town. As I was listening to the sermon, I was thinking of how if we all took the time to care for each other that the world might indeed be a different place. This community with little material possessions cares for each other, their children, and the whole church family. Our mission trip group has become more like a shepherding family as we have come to know each other and come to love one another as brothers and sisters in Christ. Maybe we need to strip ourselves of material possessions to see the true persons around us.

We carried gifts of Bibles for the confirmation class. I was asked to present them to the pastor and the school headmaster. They were overwhelmed by our generosity. I was moved to tears when the pastor thanked usand said what we give will be returned 100 fold. Simple gifts of Bibles are such a powerful message, representing the community of church. When it came time for the confirmation, the youth recited the answers to several questions flawlessly. I then presented each of them one of the Bibles.
The service started at 10 a.m. and lasted until 3:45 p.m.! We had our picture taken with the all the students. Ashley said she felt like she was at a wedding -- lots of pictures!

We closed our day in Alavanyo with a late lunch with Christian, who teaches business at the school and has been Josh's best friend while he has served here. He was a warm and gentle man. He shared that he had been accepted into a training school for computers and would be working for a teaching certificate.

We headed back to Hohoe exhausted, but moved and overwhelmed by a powerful service filled with music, meaning, and symbolism. What a day!

— Lola Coke

July 21

“Feel free.” 

Many of our friends here in Ghana have expressed this invitation to us, hoping that we will find our journey through their country a pleasurable one.  Although Ghana has its share of natural beauty and bustling cities, what is most impressive are its people.  Bright smiles and enthusiastic waves of the hand (the right hand only, of course, as the left is considered disrespectful) greet us wherever we turn.  Small children dressed in peach and brown uniforms run and swarm like bees to pose for photographs and laugh openly at the sounds of our voices.  The scenes are filled with color:  brightly patterned dresses, fresh vegetables and spices displayed along the roadside, and deep red earth under our feet.  The communities we have seen so far are complex but strong.  Despite many obstacles, the Ghanaian people show a zeal for life, a passion for Christ, and a will to persevere.  We have only good circumstances to share from this mission experience.  We feel safe and happy.  In Ghana, we indeed feel free.

— Kerry Grady

July 22

Yesterday was our first day on our work site.  We will only be working for three days.  Already, we are completely amazed at this experience.

From our hotel in Hohoe, we drove 30 minutes in our van over pot-holed roads, dodging people, goats and other vehicles to the town of Odomi.  We were greeted by school children dressed in well-worn peach and brown uniforms.  We arrived at our chapel worksite.  The original structure was blown down in a storm in 1998 and is just now being rebuilt.  We are working to rebuild the chapel with mostly cement blocks, which are made at the worksite. Awaiting us upon our arrival were at least 50 men, women, and children eager to meet us.  Before long, the site was a beehive of activity.  Our tasks included making cement block, carrying blocks, carrying sand for the mortar, and mixing mortar. 

A significant portion of time was spent interacting with the women and children.  We learned just as much from them, if not more, than they did from us – including how to carry buckets of dirt and concrete on our heads and how to carry babies wrapped on our backs.

We had lunch with Sam Nyame, a retired YMCA executive who now resides in Odomi, his hometown.  He is the treasure of the congregation and has organized most of our work.  We had a traditional Ghanaian meal called “red-red” -- rice, beans and plantains along with meat.  Dessert included a taste of palm wine, jokingly referred to as “white Fanta.” 

The afternoon included a visit to the market where we all purchased batik and other cloth.  It was followed by a visit to a tailor and a seamstress.  A dress was going for approximately $2 to $3.

For dinner, we continued to enjoy Ghanaian hospitality and ate with the elders of the church.  We ate Banku (fermented cassava dough and fish stew).  Some of us were not accustomed to the taste – or being served the head of the fish!

On Tuesday, we continued working on the chapel.  When we arrived on Tuesday morning, we were called to the weekly town assembly to meet Chief Nanaatondo II.  After being called in front of the entire town, he welcomed us and officially granted us permission  to work in the village.  Later in the afternoon, we visited him, where he explained the governing structure of the town and allowed us to ask questions.  We learned that infractions are fined, payable by gin, money, animals or community service.

This evening we went back to Odomi for an official welcome celebration from the church.  We drove through the dark and were met by the church members holding lanterns and flashlights.  Everyone was in a festive mood.  The service was filled with singing and dancing.  We did Fourth proud with our African dancing abilities.  (Yes, Presbyterians can dance in church!).  It was an amazing experience to dance with our new friends singing “We are Walking in the Light of God.”  Again, we were struck by the warmness by which we were welcomed.  Sam talked about the history of the church and expressed the congregation’s appreciation for our willingness to “come over to Macedonia” to help them, a reference to Acts 16:9.

In closing, we continue to be overwhelmed by our welcome and the magnificence of the spirit.  We continually find ourselves blessed.
— Ann Mellott and Ashley Wright

July 23

What an incredible day! In fact, it’s been an amazing couple of days. After two great days of interaction with the people of Akpafu Odomi and a tremendous celebration last night, we worked for half a day and had an appreciation ceremony.

Last night’s celebration was a special one, filled with joyous laughter, the rhythmic sounds of African drums, singing, and dancing. We left on such a high. Little did we know that the experience would be topped.

We arrived today and had a great prayer service. The first song was a Caribbean Hallelujah we sang for the congregation last night. Yes, this band ofPresbyterians from Chicago taught a Ghanaian congregation how to sing a song! (Thanks Calum!) After
prayer, it was back to the chapel site for a few last hours of work. Much progress has been made, with several layers of block, a few new interior walls and a lot of mortar being poured. Several of us explored the town for one last time. I even chanced upon a
small “general store.”

We spent plenty of time just “being” with our new Ghanaian brothers and sisters. On Sunday, Maureen, Neda and I were declared honorary Ghanaians in church. Since then, I’ve started acquiring a small African wardrobe between gifts and purchases that totaled all of $15. And today, my new friends Devine and Bismark taught me how to play the African drums (well, they tried to, at least).

Before long, it was time for the farewell service. What a humbling experience. As Calum would say later, the welcome and appreciation we have experienced has been miraculous and grace-filled. That was never more true than this morning’s service. Two days ago, we sat up front as honored guests. Today, we sat among our new friends. I sat with the drummers and even helped
with the rattle.

The entire experience was overwhelming and humbling, but not as humbling as the experience afterward at lunch. We had traveled to Sam’s house and were about done with our meal when the congregation showed up, singing and dancing in a traditional line dance. Weheard the singing and the drumbeats as they came down the driveway. I don’t think any of us will ever forget the sight. What an incredible experience we continue to enjoy!

— Mark Nelson

July 24

Yesterday afternoon, we visited Worwora Hospital. It was located further north from Odomi where we had just said our goodbyes. The roads were very bumpy with many potholes. As a nurse, I was interested in seeing the facilities. Ann (who's a doctor) and I had visited the clinic in Odomi and found it simple but effective. There was a nurse who also served as a mid-wife. The facilities and supplies were at the bare minimum. We were both interested to see how a hospital would compare.

Worwora Hospital is a beautiful campus of buildings. There were goats and chickens running free through the courtyard and family members sitting on the porches of some of the buildings. Originally a well-regarded facility, it is now near bankruptcy and will close if it doesn't get major funding. We were greeted by the current hospital administrator and a German man whose father was the original doctor and administrator of the facility. We began to hear right from the start that money was needed.

Despite its age and lack of resources, this facility was functional and still used for emergencies, childbirth and pediatric needs. We walked to the top of a hill to visit the doctors' and nurses' quarters and see the whole campus. All the buildings were in need of paint and repair. An old nurse's school, now used as a children's school was on the campus as well. The buildings and most of the equipment were over 50 years old.

There was a laboratory, x-ray, ultrasound, pharmacy, and four hospital wards with the capacity for 25 patients each. The main concern, besides money, was the lack of nurses and doctors. There was only one doctor for the whole place and a single nurse in each ward building (this is an issue we've noticed throughout the trip. Everywhere we go, Ann and I hear comments that more medical professionals are needed in Ghana).

In the maternity ward, there were a few moms and infants. There are no kitchen facilities at the hospital, so families bring in their food. Most women here have malaria, HIV complications, or are having a child or other gynecological problem. In the storeroom, there were few supplies and the blood bank was empty. Two bags of plasma lay on the shelf. In the adult ward, there were a few women. No men were patients here except in accidents. It is clear that basic needs might be met, but supplies, blood, and medicine are desperately needed.

The German man spent considerable time describing the termite, faulty water system, and disrepair of the facility. It seems like a Catch-22 – they need to repair the buildings but there are no doctors or nurses to work here. The Ghanaian people desperately need this place. The people of Ghana are rich in community, love, and faith, but so desperately need basic health care. We are truly blessed in the U.S. These people need help to reduce infant mortality and disease among its people. I pray this man gets funding and personnel to help this hospital survive and reopen the nursing school.

— Lola Coke

July 25

On Thursday and Friday, we toured several schools run by the EPC. They included both primary and schools in Hohoe. The children of Ghana are very well-behaved, good listeners and responsible at a young age. They are calm and gentle. They aren't revved up like many of my American students seem to be by entertainment distractions such as movies, music and video games, although they got very excited when the camera came out!

I had the privilege and pleasure to teach an English class for a hour each on Thursday and Friday, and I found the students to be attentive, respectful and hard-working. I actually gave the class an assignment and they all worked very hard on it. I noticed that the stronger learning kids were not tracked like they are in the U.S., so the weaker students were beingenriched by the skills and work quality of the gifted students.

The schools may not have the infrastructure and technology of most American schools, but the Ghanaian students are just as hard-working and perhaps better at listening to learn and at respecting the acquisition of knowledge. Having a good education in Ghana makes a huge difference in one's standard of living so taking education seriously is a primary concern. Having a good education also makes a difference for the well-being of their country, and it is something to which many well-educated Ghanaians are committed. It's a way of helping their communities -- a way of giving back. Family and elders are respected in Ghana and so are the teachers. There are days I long for that respect back in my own school.

— Elizabeth Lupfer

July 26–27

On Saturday morning, we did more before 9 a.m. then most people do all day. We had been invited by the young people of the community to spend the morning playing sports and games with them. We arrived to find a chalkboard marked with “Activities for the Day” such as: volleyball; football (a.k.a., soccer); Ludo (similar to Parcheesi); card games; jump-rope; a clapping and jumping game called something similar to ‘ampu’ (I’ll be happy to demonstrate in coffee hour); a board game played with pebbles and reported to be strategically similar to backgammon, and another rock game similar to what we used to call Peter Cottontail, where rocks are passed around a circle with increasing speed. Our group spread out to learn new games and new ways of playing old. Calum was delighted that he was the leading goal-scorer in football with two goals. (I’m sure we’ll be hearing about that in sermons in the months and years to come!)
In the afternoon, we visited Alavanyo, the town where Josh has been living for the last year, for a visit to the EP Technical Trades School, where he has been teaching. EPTTS provides vocational training for students in the areas of catering, dressmaking, construction, woodworking and farming. EPTTS is a less expensive alternative to traditional Ghanaian secondary schools and provides much-needed skills that help its graduates earn a living as independent workers. After seeing a traditional secondary school in Hohoe on Thursday, EPTTS provided an interesting contrast. We had a delicious lunch was prepared for us by the catering students and were able to observe members of the Building and Construction class working on an addition to the Administrative Building. We met with the school’s principal and vice-principal and toured the facilities, including the computer center where Josh is teaching basic computer classes on the school’ s two computers. (I emphasize “basic.” Josh reports they have some trouble double-clicking on a mouse.) We also met with the confirmation class that Josh co-taught, and we each inscribed their Bibles. In response, they gave us a wonderful impromptu concert.

We wandered over to see Joshua’s home. It was a large (especially by Ghanaian standards) but simple house. No running water. The driveway was through a field, and he had a wonderful view of the Ghanaian countryside. We wandered down to the village. Walking down with Josh was a bit like walking with a celebrity. This is a small town and Josh knows EVERYONE. He stopped to introduce us to a few people and then it was off for a quick sample of the local gin (distilled sap from palm trees) for an intrepid few (myself included – I thought it was pretty good). It was lovely to be introduced personally to people in Joshua’s town after hearing about them for a year. Then it was back to Hohoe, where we changed into our beautiful new African garb and headed off to our last delicious dinner at Pastor Fiagbenu’s home, followed by a celebration of singing and dancing at the EP church. It was our penultimate church experience.
This morning, at our final church service, Calum gave a moving sermon summarizing our experience in Africa. He talked about the abundance of opportunity and wealth we have in the US and the abundance of warmth, friendliness and faith that is present in Ghana. He called for our countries’ disparate abundances to meet each other’s equally disparate needs. We had to leave church early to catch our flight, but not before one more send-off and thank you -- bracelets made by the women of the church. It was a fitting way to end our experience in this country.

Kari Sanderson

July 28–29: Final Reflections

We are now enroute back to Chicago. We arrived yesterday in Accra and started the slow process of "re-entering" western culture. After 10 days of seeing no familiar brand names, few white or English-speaking people or any Western newspapers, the airport provided a bit of a culture shock. This has been an incredible experience. We are overwhelmed. Our hearts have been touched by the never-ending welcoming presence of the people we met. We have been awed and inspired by the rhythmic beat of the music we heard and the colorful dancers we watched. And we have struggled with the constant requests for our addresses and to serve as sponsors to bring local residents to the U.S. We carry with us several thank you gifts, including shirts, beaded necklaces and bracelets as well as two beautiful wooden carvings and a drum that are gifts from the people of Hohoe for the our congregation. We also carry an invitation from the Central Presbytery of the EPC to continue the relationship we established on this trip.
Ghana is a bit more developed and easier to navigate than I expected. It shares many of the problems common to other West African countries – poverty and lack of structure, industry, and widespread availability of good schools and medical care. But there are opportunities. Further, the people have an inspiring sense of faith that they live out in their daily lives despite the issues they face. I said at the beginning of this trip that mission trips have a way of happening. This one has been filled with many wonderful memories and experiences. It is always amazing to me how easy it is to develop a strong sense of connectedness with people so far away from our home in Chicago. It is truly a reflection of God's grace and love.

As we return home, I've asked the members of this trip to share their reflections on their experience -- their impressions, indelible memories, surprises and other thoughts. They follow below.

— Mark Nelson

One word to describe this trip to Ghana is "overwhelming." Overwhelming in the amount of poverty we saw and more so in the overwhelming joy and welcome we received. At the congregations we visited, we were welcomed with open arms. My best memories are worshipping with the people of Odomi singing in Ewe and dancing along side them. I also enjoyed working side-by-side with the women working on the chapel. I even learned new skills like balancing a bucket of dirt on my head (although I still have to use my hands). There was a strong sense of community in Odomi, which was impressive. People watch each other's children without question and spend time with their fellow neighbors as part of their daily life. Our group noticed this as a contrast to our own hectic lives. We were sent an article prior to the trip reflecting on a Ghanaian proverb. To paraphrase, it said if one moves too fast one can get ahead of one's soul. Most Ghanaians seem to have observed this. Speed is not a priority, but things still get done.
Although there was much want in terms of school supplies, new equipment, buildings, medical care and supplies, teachers, nurses and doctors, there was an abundance of the Holy Spirit in people's actions. The trip was fantastic. We experienced a great deal of fellowship with our group and our brothers and sisters in Ghana. We have been blessed with a safe journey, health, good food, and new friends. I thank Josh, Mark, and Calum for planning this amazing trip. I received much more than I gave and look forward to returning to Ghana.

— Ann Mellott

The images I take with me from Ghana are the faces: always expressive and mostly smiling. I truly feel that behind those smiles is a fundamental love of our Lord. It's expressed in so much of their day-to-day life. They surely expressed that to their brothers and sisters from Fourth Presbyterian Church. Wouldn't it be wonderful if visitors to our city could have that same experience?

— Maureen Zaeske

My major impressions from this trip will be one of the people of Ghana. At times, the scenery and various locations, although beautiful, paled in comparison to the people we met the life-long friends that I have made. Not only were they willing to open their doors to us at all times, they also afforded us gifts and treated us like family. One of the most striking things was that, despite poverty and poor living conditions, all of the people appeared happy and showed a faith in God that gives me a new perspective. A lasting impression has been made on my heart by the joyful songs and dancers we witnessed in the churches we visited. It was easy to see how God works for all people, sometimes even those that have the least to be happy about. This must be God's way of saying what makes him happy is when his people are happy.

— Tom Coke

There will be no finality to my experience in Ghana. This trip has left a lasting etch in my mind and heart. The Ghanaians are a people rich in pride, love and faith in the Lord landscaped against a hard life of few resources, poverty and lack of healthcare. This trip has been an overwhelming mix of emotions -- happiness, fear and desperation for these people. Their actions have been a true witness to faith in God as the center of their being. They have reminded me of the importance of simplicity and living with a community of believers in Christ. I am truly grateful to them for this reality check.

— Lola Coke

One lasting impression of this trip to Ghana is a simple lesson: what makes a country great is not its wealth, its power, or accomplishments, but its people. The people who welcomed us in Ghana are warm, sincere, and giving. Although to us, life appears harsh for them, God has blessed this community of Christians, and through them, demonstrates His example for more meaningful, enriched lives for us all.

— Kerry Grady

When I traveled to Africa before, so many people cautioned me not to, but I chose to listen to only those who had been to Africa and their advice was to be prepared to be welcomed. And welcomed I was. This time, going to Ghana, I thought that I was prepared for the people's welcome, but it was so much that I felt filled up by God's love. In the Volta Region of Ghana, when people greet you they say "Woe Zo" or "You are welcome." The warmth, acceptance, and friendship offered to me by the Ghanaians will always remain with me as I try to remember their wonderful gift of accepting and welcoming others -- even someone from a distant land with a different color skin like me.

— Elizabeth Lupfer

I'm trying to sum up my entire experience in Ghana - an exceptionally difficult task. In my view, superlatives are devalued from overuse, and I am thus left without adequate words. I'm going to try to provide a value for my superlative ("love") by using a device from Fielding and a Shakespearean premise. The premise (paraphrase): Music is the food of love. The device: A bill of fare to our Ghanaian feast. A tasteful selection of borborbor a'la radio; a filling entrée - the African national anthem sung while carrying rocks and dirt in Akpafu Odomi; a soupcon of drumming lessons given to anyone expressing an interest; a smorgasbord of traditional American songs (to wit: 1970s television theme songs) presented by van-trapped Americans; a savory - a Muslim choir singing and dancing the captives out of Egypt in the church at Hohoe; The piece de resistance - the congregation of Akpafu Odomi dancing up the road in formation to say goodbye as we finished eating lunch on Sammy's porch after our last work day. (It should be noted that each and every course may be seasoned to taste with dance.) With such a feast, how could I not fall in love with Ghana? And, to runneth my cup over, I need only answer one question (to paraphrase from "This is Spinal Tap"): How much more fortunate could I be than to share the meal with such an appreciative, thoughtful, exciting, varied and humorous group of fellow diners? None. The trip, then, was one of fortune and love.

— Kari Sanderson

As I write this, Ghana is physically far behind me but it’s been said that when something lives in your heart there is no such thing as far away. I planned to write this on the flight from Accra to London’s Heathrow airport, but I was asleep before take-off and was politely informed six and a half hours later that it was time to put my seat back up to its proper position in preparation for landing. We are all home safely in Chicago now, apart from Ashley, who lives in London, and Calum, who is spending some time with friends in Germany and then heading to Scotland. We joked about sitting together in church next Sunday and standing up to dance during the singing of the hymns – it has become quite normal for us. Other things that have become normal: chickens in the hotel; goats everywhere; Milo in the mornings; casual conversations about stomach region rumblings; machetes in the schools; cold showers; mosquito bites; sweaty, crowded van or “tro-tro” rides during which the mood alternated between singing and laughing to heads bobbing in silence as we struggled to control our exhaustion; hearing the words “You are welcome” spoken with genuine warmth at least twenty times everyday; the local handshake we struggled with in the beginning, but adopted as our own towards the end as we expertly shook and snapped with just about everyone we encountered; being pointed at and laughed at (in a good way) and not minding one bit; and the special moments we shared with certain members of the group – whether we were separated from the others by a sudden rain shower forcing us to find the nearest shelter and giving us the opportunity to have a one-to-one conversation, or choosing a slower pace on longer walks and being given the gift of quality time with someone we hadn’t had the chance to get to know very well up until then. And at the end of the day, having the chance to get together and discuss our highlights, or low-points, what touched us, what we had learned, and what we were struggling with. Sometimes these things would come up during nightly devotions, as we sang together, prayed and reflected.

We had to leave the church in Hohoe mid-service on Sunday morning in order to make it to the airport on time. We were sent off as warmly as we were welcomed. After having just spent the morning singing and dancing, listening to Calum’s moving sermon, making our offerings and being given gifts of locally made beaded bracelets to remember our new friends by, we waved our final goodbyes and some of us wiped tears from our eyes. All of us thought also of our friends in Akpafu Odomi, who at that moment were worshipping in their make-shift chapel, yards away from the new chapel we had helped them with, possibly singing a song we had taught them and they took a particular liking to, adding drum beats and dancing, naturally. The bricks we carried on our heads or in our arms are piled high and sealed with mortar we helped mix. For those of us who left Ghana, the chapel will live with us as a symbol of our connection through Christ with our brothers and sisters in Africa.

— Susan Michaelsen

Links

The Republic of Ghana

Letters from Fourth Church member Josh Heikkila during his mission work in Ghana

If you are interested in taking a trip like this one or if you wish to support this work with a gift of time or money, please contact Vicki Reynolds at vreynolds@fourthchurch.org (312.787.4570).

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